Fad, Trend or Classic?

Fashion is constantly changing, repeating and attempting to be become better every season. Some fashion styles gain a place in history
...and some don’t.
A fad is something that is followed for a short period of time but with great enthusiasm. A few years ago fluoro, slogan and oversized tee shirts were extremely popular with young teenagers but thank goodness they are now hidden away or only brought out at 80’s parties (I suppose they were sort of a short lived trend repeat). Another example of a fad has been the use of zips on the outside of clothes as an obvious trimming. Many fads begin on the catwalk and are mimicked to death by other mass producing companies. Other fads come about by the “bubble up” method of kids on the street beginning their own styles which are mimicked by designers such as low, baggy jeans worn by poor children originally but now sported by rappers such as Snoop Dogg.

A trend is similar to a fad, except a trend stays popular for longer. Some good examples of a trend are skinny leg jeans, ripped jeans with stone wash or jeans in general. Today, trousers are mimicking the drainpipe style of those which were popular in the 1950’s and worn by stars such as Marilyn Monroe and bands such as The Beatles and The Rolling Stones (which gave the slim fitting jeans the “bad boy” image). Trousers of similar shape remained popular until the 70’s as a contrasting statement against the hippie’s and their flared pants. Kate Moss and The Strokes can be credited with the revival of skinny legged pants and jeans in the 2000’s.

Chanel is the best example of classic fashion. Her simple trouser designs in basic colours like cream and white, nautical inspired striped shirts, patent shoes and the ever classic and popular “little black dress” can be credited to her. A Classic item of clothing will potentially be forever stylish, if the wearer has style to accompany it. Chanel began such designs using the trickle down method as she was a fashion designer who was highly influential; her designs were also popular as they freed women from frills (and corset’s)

new life for clothes!

It's so simple to breathe "new life" into a garment!

here are some quick tricks:

• tuck/take off the sleeves


• take up the hem


• add a belt


• layer other garments around it such as tulle


• accessorise

If you have more time on your hands you can:

• turn a long skirt into a dress


• turn a dress into a top


• turn long trousers or jeans into shorts


• add flare to a dress/skirt/top


• rip, bleach, gather, tuck, bead, dye etc...

The fashionable doll and friends

These 21 inch full-figured dolls wear elaborate formal gowns and fancy accessories. They are similar to fashion dolls that took the doll market by storm in the 1950’s. Many early fashion dolls were created from hard plastic with glued on wigs for hair and even some legs or arms with joints...remind you of any common doll today? Smaller fashion dolls of about 6-9inches were very popular and magazines like Cosmopolitan and Vogue created their own dolls to accompany magazines. Dolls came with outfits and these could be swapped and treasured by the owner and serve as a historical reference of fashions of the day.

Dolls above by Andrew Yang, who has created a line of “supermodel” rag dolls dressed in miniature versions of Spring 2010 designs. The dolls sell for around $600.

Today, original fashion dolls are worth a mint if kept in pristine condition, however they were great toys at their time of creation as well as functioning as fashionable accompaniments. Barbie became the most popular doll of the time and helped end the attention to detail that was first included in fashion dolls. There is evidence to suggest fashion dolls were around in 1396 to display dresses for royalty. Fashion dolls became a high part of the fashion trade in the 17th Century as French designers would send dolls displaying miniature versions of their designs to England, Germany, Spain and Italy!
Their miniature size was useful in the depression’s as it meant less fabric wastage.

Blogs… do they really have an impact?

A blog is a website set up by anyone for almost any purpose. These blogs can advertise products like http://pigeonhole.com.au/news/ (which advertises new arrivals for the pigeonhole stores), share ones thoughts through poetry and random articles like http://imjustelisa.blogspot.com/ or display pretty picture upon picture or fashionable images and fantastic outfits such as http://lookbook.nu/new

Blogs are becoming increasingly popular and it seems most people have one. They are free and simple to set up and who doesn’t want to post their thoughts and pictures on the internet for all to see with a simple click of a button and internet service!

Some may say that blogs are the new magazine or even zine but I think they will never replace either form of media. Things on the internet can almost seem too accessible and common whereas a zine is handmade and a magazine (and zine) can be flicked through, not just stared at in awe.

aamener is also on the blogscene (you are witnessing it now...) The benefits of a blog are its accessibility, the ease that one hyperlink can show the reader a whole page to reference and admire other people’s blogs or photos and the flexibility involved with uploading more thoughts, articles and photos whenever and not needing to create a whole new zine!

Blogs… do they really have an impact?

A blog is a website set up by anyone for almost any purpose. These blogs can advertise products like http://pigeonhole.com.au/news/ (which advertises new arrivals for the pigeonhole stores), share ones thoughts through poetry and random articles like http://imjustelisa.blogspot.com/ or display pretty picture upon picture or fashionable images and fantastic outfits such as http://lookbook.nu/new

Blogs are becoming increasingly popular and it seems most people have one. They are free and simple to set up and who doesn’t want to post their thoughts and pictures on the internet for all to see with a simple click of a button and internet service!

Some may say that blogs are the new magazine or even zine but I think they will never replace either form of media. Things on the internet can almost seem too accessible and common whereas a zine is handmade and a magazine (and zine) can be flicked through, not just stared at in awe.

aamener is also on the blogscene (you are witnessing it now...) The benefits of a blog are its accessibility, the ease that one hyperlink can show the reader a whole page to reference and admire other people’s blogs or photos and the flexibility involved with uploading more thoughts, articles and photos whenever and not needing to create a whole new zine!

dolls undressed, a brief history and an introduction to their personalities... their clothes are in my zine, get hold of my zine to dress them!

The humble paper doll drawn on paper and accompanied by clothes to cut out was first manufactured in 1810, Little Fanny, produced by S&J Fuller, London.

Soon to appear in America was The History and Adventures of Little Henry, published by J. Belcher of Boston in 1812.
While the London doll was the first manufactured doll, there is evidence dating back to 900 AD in Japan at an ancient purification ceremony where a doll was dressed in a kimono and set to sea in a boat.


Record of the dolls being used for the “entertainment of wealthy adults” dates back to the 1700’s in the fashion centres of Vienna, Berlin, London and Paris.
Paper dolls provide an insight into fashion. They hold the trends of when they were created.

Films that influence fashion

Films that influence fashion

“What hollywood did today, fashion would do tomorrow”
Quoted by elsa schiaparelli

Cinema advertisements on television and in magazines encourage the public to watch films.
Throughout the 20th century films have become more influential in portraying new and upcoming trends that encourage the audience to follow the styles of the actors on the screen.
Films have become a new avenue for advertising in the fashion world. For example, Sex and the City displays many big fashion houses such as monolo blahnik. In one scene, Carrie walks down the street and the shop is in the background quite obviously. This is a form of visual advertising as the audience remembers the brand and this heightens its popularity.

Since the beginning of film, it has influenced the audience to dress like the actors on screen and off.

Rebel Without a Cause (1955) featured James Dean setting a new standard in cool, “Even I had his red biker jacket,” Monolo Blahnik said.

Audrey Hepburn cut her hair off for the film Sabrina to give her look a more grown up woman appearance. It became the rage at the time, young girls and women were asking their hair stylists for an “Audrey Hepburn” hair cut. This demonstrates that it is not only what the actors wear that is powerful, but how they hold themselves and accessorise too. Their hair, makeup and accessories are very much apart of the fashion scene.


To find out more on fashion influences through film, visit www.travellady.com

Designer to watch: Sadotna

~Sadotna is the Melbourne fashion label of designer Bronwyn Nicholson. She has a retail store at 65 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy 3065, Melbourne.

These images are from their 2010 collection. More at www.sadotna.com ~

Precious pieces
by Paper Skye


With simple, elegant designs in pastel colours and the ever flattering black, Kirsten Shadbolt of Paper Skye has some beautiful creations that deserve a mention! First established in June 2008, Kirsten has since been included in Designer for tomorrow at the Perth Fashion Festival 2009, Style AID 2009, a charity event at the Cottesloe Beach Surf life saving club and donated items to the Ronald Mc Donald Charity Ball and CanTeen.
I had the joy of interviewing her and here’s some interesting information I found out…


>>What are your current inspirations?
Taking photos of nature is a huge inspiration. My previous collection, Dreams at the Lakeside was influenced by water and the colours and shades of it were evident in my hand dyed silk dresses. I love open spaces- being brought up in the country has helped me to appreciate camping and going down south is something I always look forward to. Simple things like grass, plants, water and the textures they create are huge influences. Music is always in the background when I am working so I guess that is also an inspiration, along with thinking about travelling and getting excited about new designs.
>>Describe who you envision to wear your clothes..
Feminine women who are comfortable in themselves and are not super stylish but more subtle in their beauty. The wearer does not have a huge amount of money but enough to spend wisely on timeless pieces that can be loved and treasured.
>>Describe your latest collection…
The latest collection comes out in September and includes classic shapes and pieces with attention to detail. The colour palette is made up of soft, pale colours such as skin pinks, beige and other earthy pastels. The designs are made precious through the use of fine frill details and free flowing layers.
>>Can you please explain your favourite piece from this collection…
A two layered georgette long silk maxi with a simple top and buttons. The top has tiny frill detail with many mini layers and comes in the earthy pastel palette.
>>Where did you acquire your skills?
Studied at Central TAFE for Advanced Diploma in Fashion and Textiles and enjoyed sewing and art through high school.
>>Best advice someone has given you/your favourite quote?
“Don’t expect to be recognised before five years when running a business”
>>Any tips for those wanting to follow in your footsteps?
Don’t expect too much too soon. Start small like at a market stall and grow your business from the profits you make as you go. Increase your production slowly to support your business so you’re not out of pocket.
>>Would you say your personal style is reflected in your designs?
No. I create for a different character; she is part of my design process. Personally I choose to wear jeans and a nice top.
>>What is the inspiration behind the label name?
During my time at Central TAFE I created a dress named “Paper Doll” which was constructed from two tops with four armholes in total, I still have it at home actually. After many, many brainstorms the name “Paper Skye” reappeared constantly as Skye was what I wanted to name my daughter. People now say that my label is my first daughter in a way. (And with Kirsten’s love and fine detail in her clothing, calling the label her first child seems quite valid!)
>>Do you prefer Summer or Winter?
Summer! It is more fun to design for.
>>Explain your daily routine…
Every Monday I lecture at Central TAFE, every other day I wake up at 6am, go for a run and leave the house by 7.30 and arrive at my studio by 8am normally after picking up my coffee. If I choose to check and reply to my emails I aim to be at my studio by 9am and normally stay there until about 5.30/6 pm with a 1hour lunch break. My day is always different; I may be designing, cleaning, sewing, cutting, ordering, and driving. I try to stick to these work hours and the routine I am in, I only see my friends out of these hours and enjoy it. When I first started the business I used to work Saturday and Sunday too, but I have finally found the right balance where I get a break. I do love what I do though.
>>What can we expect from you in the future?
My designs will be stocked over east and internationally. I am hoping for big things and plan to grow the business. I have always wanted this so I will keep at it.

Kirsten was going to go into the hospitality industry but I’m glad she has pursued her fashion interest! Her designs can be seen and purchased through www.fashionwa.com

now here's a sunny suggestion...

make your own hat!

You will be needing...

• Fabric for the brim and top of hat


• Interfacing for the brim of hat like Shape well or a stiff interfacing if available


• Perhaps a ribbon to tie your hat to your head or to attach to the top


• Any other decorations you wish to include such as flowers, bows, bells...

First measure your head where your hat will sit (the circumference) and add 1cm to the measurement for wearing ease.

Now it's time for some maths...


Divide the circumference by 6.28. This new measurement will be the radius. Place a compass on your paper and draw a circle with the radius just discovered, the inside area will be cut out.

Then decide how wide you want your hat to be (the brim), the wider it is the floppier it will be which also means more protection! Add 2cm to the width of your brim (this will be your 1cm seam allowance for both sides)

Draw another circle outside the first with the desired depth of your brim (including seam allowance)


There will now be a doughnut shape on your paper, cut two of these "dough" pieces from your fabric and one from your interfacing.


Attach interfacing to the back of one fabric layer (depending on your interfacing you will have to either iron it on or sew it on) Sew the other piece of fabric to the interfacing so you have a "sandwich" of interfacing between your pretty fabric, do this by placing right sides of fabric together and sew 1cm in from the brim. Turn right side out and admire the beautiful brim.


If you choose you can sew on the brim in random patterns or in simple lines, or if you're feeling very outrageous you can add beads and sequins or even put some wadding between the layers and attempt some quilting!


Time for the top... the circumference of your head must be divided by 3.14 to obtain the radius and then add 3cm wearing ease/ seam allowance. Using a compass, draw a circle on a piece of paper with the magic number just created as the radius. Cut out two of this shape in your fabric and if you want a more stable top then also cut out and attach an interfacing.

Sew the two layers together with a 1cm seam allowance, then gather the outside of the top piece so they fit to the inner brim.

Match the inside of the brim with the outside of the top, rights sides together and sew the top layer of the inner brim to the top piece with 1cm seam allowance.



To finish the inside, sew the inner bottom brim layer to the top piece by placing both with their right sides together and sewing with 1cm seam allowance (the last stitches may need to be hand sewn) If you want to attach a ribbon to tie to your head, sew it in now!

Another alternative is to attach the top pieces to the brim with the seam allowance facing out so it frays. As you should notice, this hat is reversible so you can choose to hide the seam completely by gluing or sewing a ribbon over the seam!


Finally... Try it on and if you love it then make more! Send me any pictures of you in your hat and I'll put them up!

Sustainability and styleability.. all together now!

So... you want to do your part to help the environment, to leave a lighter footprint on the planet? Yet still you want to do something for yourself while still looking good and remaining in high style... the solution lies in making the right choice for you and the environment by choosing pieces by the designers below (or others who use sustainable fibres, fabrics and eco friendly things)...

- Goodone, a label established in 2006 they use off cuts of jersey, knits and other recycled fabrics to create one off or mass produced designs of simple beauty. Visit their website to see how they recreate a t-shirt, it is very interesting! http://www.goodone.co.uk/

-Linda Loudermilk, this "green goddess" uses eco friendly fabrics such as bamboo, recycled polyester, hemp satin, seacell organic cotton and organic wool to create fantastic dresses! http://www.lindaloudermilk.com/

-Loomstate, for organic cotton and dyes in really great clothes www.loomstate.org

-Avita, named after "vita" meaning life, this label utilises recycled, organic and earth- friendly materials to create off-beat contemporary designs http://www.avitastyle.com/

-United bamboo, run by Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham their brand now encompasses many areas of the arts including fashion

- Katharine Hamnett, with campaigns like "clean up or die" and 'Free Burma" this designer is set on helping others and the environment http://www.katherinehamnett.com/

- Doie Designs, now incorporate bamboo and organic cotton and dyes into their simple ready to wear designs http://www.doiedesigns.com/

-Edun, created by Ali hewson and Bono this label aims to "build Africa as a viable source of production for fashion" visit www.edunonline.com

Lace!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV45RvwPCO8&feature=player_embedded

check out the pretty lace and draping on this dress, backstage at Rodarte

For More lace this 2010, see Valentino's collection for Paris Fashion week 2010

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The creation of the humble magazine..

The creation of thy humble magazine..


A long time ago.. 1892 in America to be precise..., a wonderful fashion magazine named Vogue was published by Arthur Baldwin Turnure. Conde Nast purchased the entire publication in 1909 and the magazine continued to grow in publicity as it arrived on British soil from about 1916. As 1973 came round Vogue was published only once a month (it was started as a weekly magazine) and now Vogue is now published in more than 17 countries.

-Pictured Left: Original "The Cosmopolitan" from March 1894
-Picture Right : Vogue Original July 1953

Cosmopolitan can be compared to Vogue as it still circulates and was published even earlier! It's first date of publication is in 1886 in the United States where it was originally a family magazine. My how things have changed! Cosmopolitan magazine is now for women and features much fashion, make up and much gossip! (The magazine turned to a women’s magazine around 1960) Like Vogue, Cosmopolitan magazine has surged the market and now resides in 34 different languages in 58 international editions in 100 countries!!

Whilst the following magazines are now not in publication, they were in fact the first fashion magazines produced…

In 1770 “The Lady’s magazine” began printing with fashion plates in it. This can be called one of the first fashion magazines as these fashion plates portrayed women and men in fashionable clothes for the future and current seasons. Other magazines to contain fashion plates at the time were “Cabinet des Modes” and “Journal de la Mode”. “La Belle Assemblee” (began in 1806) had a long run of 63 years to beat off its competitors like “Le Beau Monde”.

The Longest running English magazine was called “The Queen, the Ladies’ Newspaper” and began in 1890. The name was shortened to Queens and lasted until Harpers bought it over in 1968 and named it Harpers & Queen. The name changed again to “Harpers bazaar” in March 2006 as the 'Queen' part of the magazines name was dropped to help its international status.

But, if we're not focussing on FASHION magazines, read this...
According to Wikipedia: "The Gentleman's Magazine, first published in 1731, in London, is considered to have been the first general-interest magazine. Edward Cave, who edited The Gentleman's Magazine under the pen name "Sylvanus Urban", was the first to use the term "magazine", on the analogy of a military storehouse of varied materiel, originally derived from the Arabic makazin "storehouses". The oldest consumer magazine still in print is The Scots Magazine, which was first published in 1739, though multiple changes in ownership and gaps in publication totaling over 90 years weaken that claim. Lloyd's List was founded in Edward Lloyd’s England coffee shop in 1734; it is still published as a daily business newspaper."

Top ten of 2010/11...

Top ten of 2010/11

-Manipulated fabric by draping (see Lanvin top right)
-Sheer fabric (Akira above as an example)

- "peek a boo" sections that reveal skin (Akira above and Viktor &Rolf below)

-Tailored jackets with defined shoulders (Sonia Rykiel see below)

-Pastel colours like beige, peach and green. Olive tones. Hints of metallic. Gradients in colour

-Bold and subtle prints inspired by nature like trees, feathers and animals

-Tailored trousers with skinny ankles (Seen at New York Fashion week by TSE&Jason Wu)

-Ruffles of fabric, in single form or as many (See Lanvin at top)

-Emphasised shoulders and waist (hourglass shape as seen by Alexander McQueen)

-Vintage looks with lace or embroidery (seen below by Valentino)

Bottom ten of 1010/11

-Gladiator sandals
-Too many sequins
-Fluorescent colours
-leggings with short tops
-cropped jackets
-wide leg jeans
-mini skirts
-cowboy boots
-too many zips
-bags with large labels

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